AutomagNormally open hydronic system
TECHNICAL INFORMATION

AUTOMAG Basic Wire Diagrams

(PDF version)

Typical residential system:

Typical Residential System Diagram

Converting to AUTOMAG using two wire thermostats:

Converting to AUTOMAG Using Teo Wire Thermostats Diagram

AUTOMAG Replacement Zone Valves

(PDF version)

The new Automag replacement zone valve is designed to easily replace other manufacturer's zone valves in existing installations.

The replacement zone valve is easily wired with (3) 2-wire terminal blocks:

  • 2-wire thermostat connection
  • 2-wire 24 volt AC transformer connection
  • 2-wire "TT" End Switch connection

(Refer to diagram below.)

The replacement zone valve circuit board includes filtered, soft close components that eliminate valve hum and water hammer from instant closure.

Remove valve cover (with circuit board and coil) prior to soldering valve.

AUTOMAG Replacement Zone Valve Diagram

IF INSTALLING ZONE VALVE ON A HORIZONTAL PIPE DO NO INSTALL WITH HEAD/COVER IN A DOWN OR DOWNWARD POSITION.

AZC Control Installation

(PDF version)

  1. Determine the proper Automag valve for the installation based on the pipe size, pump head rating and system flow (GPM).

    VALVE #
    PIPE SIZE
    PUMP HEAD
    MAX. FLOW (GPM)
    AA1/2 - 14
    1/2"
    14'
    4 1/2
    AA1/2 - 25
    1/2"
    25'
    6
    AA3/4 - 14
    3/4"
    14'
    4 1/2
    AA3/4 - 25
    3/4"
    25'
    6
    AA1 - 16
    1"
    16'
    8
    AB3/4 - 8
    3/4"
    8'
    4 1/2
  2. The AZC 40P/60P control is designed for use with 2-wire Thermostats. The AZC control works with all 2-wire thermostats. (Anticipator set to .18)
  3. The AZC is designed with filtered, slow closing circuitry that eliminates any valve "hum" and water hammer from rapid closure.
  4. The AZC 4060 P is available in both 4-zone and 6-zone control arrangements. They both are supplied with zone #1 as a switchable priority zone. With the priority switch in the "OFF" position, zone #1 controls as a normal heating zone. With the priority switch in the "ON" position, zone #1 controls the system Indirect Water HEater with priority over the rest of the system heating zones. Once the Indirect Water Heater aquastat is satisfied, the system returns to normal zone heating control.
  5. The transformers on the AZC control have enough capacity to handle any combination of Automag Zone Valves.
  6. Install Automag AA and AB series zone valves on the RETURN or the SUPPLY when used with the AZC control.
  7. The Automag Zone Valves utilize approximately 24 volts DC to close, therefore are identified as a normally-open zone valve. The normally-open feature insures the home owner that hot water will circulate if there is a failure in the power to the zone valve.
  8. Make sure that the direction of flow is correct as indicated by the directional arrow on the valve body.
  9. Automag AA zone valve may be installed in any position. It is preferred, however, that AA zone valves be installed on a horizontal line with the coil on top. This is facilitate gravity flow in case of circulator malfunction. For gravity systems and monoflow (one pipe) systems, install coil on top.
  10. Remove coil cover and coil prior to soldering. Do not disassemble the valve base.
  11. DO NOT DEFORM, SQUEEZE, MUTILATE OR OTHERWISE DAMAGE VALVE SYSTEM! DO NOT HOLD VALVE STEM WITH PLIERS!

  12. Important! Do not use excessive flux or solder or some may work its way into valve. The use of strainers reduces the possibility of solder pieces or other debris holding a valve open. These strainers are inserted in the supply side of the valve with the domed end out.
  13. Some systems (e.g. systems that were converted from steam to hydronic) contain a considerable amount of loose rust which can clog a zone valve and/or strainer. For installations such as these, it is necessary to use an inline "Y" strainer in front of the zone valve with ball valves as required to isolate system.
  14. Do not exceed circulator head rating of valve! Use the smallest circulator that will handle the job. Less powerful circulators are quieter and less expensive to buy, operate, maintain, and replace. The choice of slightly larger pipe size is preferable to a more powerful circulator.

AZC 4060-P Wiring Diagram

(PDF version)

When any thermostat (or Zone #1 aquastat) calls for heat, the appropriate Automag Zone Valve is opened (de-energized) and the indicating red light goes on. The zone relay starts the boiler and/or circulator. The green light is always on, indicating that the power is connected.

The Priority ON/OFF switch allows Zone #1 to control boiler water to an Indirect Water Heater while temporarily closing the heating zone valves or to control as as a normal heating zone (OFF position).

The 3-wire "Fail-Safe" thermostat connection is supplied with a jumper wire installed. With the jumper wire removed and a 3-wire thermostat wired to the "Fail-Safe" connection it provides emergency low temperature control directly to the Boiler and/or circulator.

The MOV is provided for high voltage protection.

AZC 4060-P Wiring Diagram

All work must be performed by qualified personnel in accordance with all applicable codes and ordinances. AUTOMAG zone valves are to be installed in accordance with their supplied instructions.

Installation Information with MB Power Supply

(PDF version)

  1. Determine the proper Automag valve for the installation based on the pipe size, pump head rating and system flow (GPM).

    VALVE #
    PIPE SIZE
    PUMP HEAD
    MAX. FLOW (GPM)
    AA1/2 - 14
    1/2"
    14'
    4 1/2
    AA1/2 - 25
    1/2"
    25'
    6
    AA3/4 - 14
    3/4"
    14'
    4 1/2
    AA3/4 - 25
    3/4"
    25'
    6
    AA1 - 16
    1"
    16'
    8
    AB3/4 - 8
    3/4"
    8'
    4 1/2
  2. The MB Power Supply is available with a 50VA transformer. Determine the required VA transformer based on the following table:

    VALVE #
    COIL #
    VA
    AA1/2 - 14
    AA3/4 - 14
    #31
    6
    AA1/2 - 25
    AA3/4 - 25
    AA1 - 16
    #29
    8
    AB3/4 - 8
    #32
    4
  3. The Automag Zone Valves utilize approximately 24 volts DC to close, therefore are identified as a normally-open zone valve. The normally-open feature insures the home owner that hot water will circulate if there is a failure in the power to the zone valve.
  4. When installed with an MB Power Supply the AUtomag Zone Valves require 3-wire Thermostats for each zone. The 3-wire Thermostat controls the opening and closing of the zone valve as well as maintaining Boiler control to the "T & T" connection. 2-wire Thermostats may be used with the MB Power Supply if each zone valve is wired to a CNV84 Relay (see AUTOMAG ADDITIONAL INFORMATION SHEET).
  5. INstall Automag AA and AB series zone valves on the RETURN to insure that water hammer will not occur.
  6. Make sure that the direction of flow is correct as indicated by the directional arrow on the valve body.
  7. Automag AA zone valves may be installed in any position. It is preferred, however, that AA zone valves be installed on a horizontal line with the coil on top. This is facilitate gravity flow in case of circulator malfunction. For gravity systems and monoflow (one pipe) systems, install coil on top.
  8. Remove coil cover and coil prior to soldering. Do not disassemble the valve base.
  9. DO NOT DEFORM, SQUEEZE, MUTILATE OR OTHERWISE DAMAGE VALVE SYSTEM! DO NOT HOLD VALVE STEM WITH PLIERS! WARRANTY WILL BE VOID IF THIS OCCURS.
  10. Important! Do not use excessive flux or solder or some may work its way into valve. The use of strainers reduces the possibility of solder pieces or other debris holding a valve open. These strainers are inserted in the supply side of the valve with the domed end out.
  11. Some systems (e.g. systems that were converted from steam to hydronic) contain a considerable amount of loose rust which can clog a zone valve and/or strainer. For installations such as these, it is necessary to use an inline "Y" strainer in front of the zone valve with ball valves as required to isolate system.
  12. Do not exceed circulator head rating of valve! Use the smallest circulator that will handle the job. Less powerful circulators are quieter and less expensive to buy, operate, maintain, and replace. The choice of slightly larger pipe size is preferable to a more powerful circulator. In general, 14' and 16' head valves are satisfactory for use with standard 2" circulators up to 1/6H.P. 25' valves may be used with 3" circulators (1/2H.P. maximum).
  13. ANticipator Setting: When using a thermostat with adjustable anticipator setting, set the anticipator to 1.0.

Troubleshooting "RI" Model Automag

(PDF version)

When all else fails, read the directions!

WIRED CORRECTLY? The Automag "RI" series zone valves are normally open (powered closed) and require 24 volts AC power to the center 2-wire connector, labeled "POWER".

GREEN AND RED LEDs: The green LED always be lit when proper power is connected to the center 2-wire connector labeled "POWER". The red LED should only be lit when the appropriate thermostat is turned up calling for heat.

PROPER CONNECTIONS: The zone valve head has 3 sets of 2-wire connectors. With the green and red LEDs at the top, the left 2-wire connector, labeled "T'STAT", should have 2 wires from the heating thermostat. The center 2-wire connector, labeled "POWER", should have 24 volt AC power connected to it. The right 2-wire connector, labeled "TO TT", should have wires going to the system boiler/circulator control.

TEST WIRING: Turn down all thermostats. Place iron nail at the end of each valve stem (where hairpin clip is secured). Nails should be held in place by magnetism. A weak magnetic pull indicates that the valve is stuck open. Turn thermostats up one at a time. Appropriate nail should fall off the valve stem. The heating system circulator should come on. If the system does not check out OK, recheck wiring very carefully. Make sure that each thermostat is wired to the correct, matching zone valve. Valves should be magnetized only when zone is not calling for heat (thermostat is satisfied).

NO MAGNETISM: When checking for magnetic pull if none of the valves show signs of magnetism, check to be sure that the low voltage side of the transformer has 24 volt AC. If no voltage present, and proper input voltage is present, replace transformer.

SOME WITH MAGNETISM, SOME WITHOUT: Be sure that all thermostats are turned down. All valves should have green LED lit. If valve does not have green LED lit, check to be sure all wiring is secure. If green LED still not lit, and the valve has magnetism, the green LED has burned out. If there is very weak magnetism, see "OVERHEATING" section below. Remove the 2 wires from thermostat connected to the zone valve with no magnetism. If there is still no magnetism, replace the zone valve head.

MECHANICAL

NO HEAT: Air there in the line? Zone valve installed backwards (arrow on zone valve body should be in direction of flow from circulator). Manual valve left closed? Frozen pipe? Obstruction in the line? Is circulator operating? Is valve stem damaged, marked or squeezed, locking the internal plunger in a closed position? OVERHEATING: Foreign matter in zone valve? Valve stem damaged, marked or squeezed, preventing the internal plunger from closing? Zone valve plunger locked tight with leak sealer? Circulating pump more powerful that valve rating? Split in loop? Each zone must start as one line and return as one line, or cross-feed can cause overheating.

A light tap on the base can sometimes free a stuck valve. NEVER tap the stem or handle it with any tool!

Troubleshooting Old Style Automag

(PDF version)

When all else fails, read the directions!

Suggested special equipment:

Suggested special equipment

  1. Continuity tester
  2. Test light 120V, small clear bulb
  3. 1/4" drive ratchet with 3/8" socket
  4. 1/4" nut runner for power supply
  5. Spare fuses and gaskets

IS SYSTEM WIRED CORRECTLY? AUTOMAG Zone Valves are "Normally Open" (powered closed) and operate with 24 volts DC.

TEST WIRING: Turn down all thermostats. Heating system should be off (demand circulation systems). Place IRON NAIL at the end of each valve stem. NAILS should be held in place by magnetism. A weak magnetic pull indicates that the valve is stuck open. Turn thermostats up one at a time. Appropriate nail should fall off the valve stem. The heating system should come on. If the system does not check out OK, recheck wiring very carefully. Make sure that each thermostat is wired to the correct, matching zone valve. Valves should be magnetized only when zone is not calling for heat (thermostat is satisfied).

NO MAGNETISM: When checking for magnetic pull if none of the valves show signs of magnetism, check fuse. If fuse is blown:

  1. Turn off power
  2. Disconnect "W" return conductor from each valve from "W" terminal block
  3. With thermostats turned down, make sure there is no continuity between each "W" return conductor and "R" terminal block.

Repeat with thermostats turned up. Correct wiring is required.

Before reconnecting wires, CHECK RECTIFIER. WIth "W" wires disconnected and low voltage fuse removed, check for continuity between input (AC) leads of rectifier. Reverse continuity tester leads and check again. If light lights up in either case, replace rectifier.

ALTERNATE RECTIFIER CHECK: With "W" thermostat wires disconnected from power supply, and with power on, replace low voltage fuse. If fuse blows immediately, replace rectifier.

SILICON RECTIFIERS are very reliable when properly used. However, a massive short in the system or sparking across the rectifier output can destroy a rectifier. Occasionally lightning will destroy a rectifier.

THERMOSTAT CHECK: With thermostat turned up (calling for heat) there should be continuity between "R & B" terminals only. With thermostat turned down (satisfied) there should be continuity between "R & W" only.

TRANSFORMERS may be checked with test light. With power on, 24 VDC output will cause bulb to glow dimly. Bulb will light brightly with 120 VAC input. NEVER "spark" a transformer.

OTHER POSSIBILITIES:

  1. Occasionally, a rectifier with an internal short will produce about 12 VDC (half wave). Check voltage with DC voltmeter.
  2. Extra long thermostat wires and/or too light a gage (lighter than 18) and/or too many zones on a single conductor can cause excessive voltage drop. Voltage at valve should be 20 VDC minimum.
  3. Is thermostat screwed on wall too tightly?
  4. HEATING SYSTEM STAYS ON WITH ALL THERMOSTATS SATISFIED (turned down): Disconnect all "B" thermostat wires from "B" terminal block. Reconnect one at a time until system comes on, thus isolating faulty circuit. Correct the short by replacing the shorted connector wire. If heating system stays on with all "B" thermostat wires disconnected, look for trouble in boiler wiring.

MECHANICAL CHECK LIST

  1. NO HEAT CAUSES
    1. Air in line?
    2. Zone valve installed backwards?
    3. Manual valve left closed?
    4. Frozen pipe?
    5. Massive obstruction in line?
    6. Is circulator operating?
  2. OVERHEATING
    1. Foreign matter in valve?
    2. Valve stem damaged, marked, or squeezed?
    3. Zone valve locked tight with leak sealer?
    4. Circulating pump more powerful than valve rating?
    5. Split in loop?
    6. Each zone must start as one line and return as one line, or cross-feed can cause overheating.

A light tap on the base can sometimes free a stuck valve.

NEVER tap the stem or handle it with any tool!

1111 Hill Street, Jessup, PA 18434
(800) 451-2002
(570) 383-2428
FAX: (570) 383-9820

Automag division of KCI Industries, Inc.
Manufacturer of "Fail-Safe" normally open Zone Valves

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